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Materials:
- Recycled window - roughly 32"x26"
- 1x6 cedar fencing
- 1x6 cedar decking
- 1x2 cedar
- 3 - 2" hinges
- About 50 - 1-1/2" exterior grade screws
- 16 - 1-1/4" exterior grade screws
- 1 - 3" x 1/4" carriage bolt, two washers and a nut
to fit
- Thread adhesive
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Tools
- Drill or screwdriver, bits
- Handsaw or circular saw
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Cut List:
- Back: Two - 1"x 6"x 30" (thicker cedar)
- Front: One - 1" x 6" x 30"
- Floor: Five - 1" x 6" x 30"
- Sides: Four - 1" x 6" x 24-1/2"
- Braces: Four - 1" x 2" x 10-1/2"
- Arm: One - 1" x 2" x 12"
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Steps:

Measure the window in both directions |

The box will be smaller than the window so that the rain will
drip off |

The back pieces are thicker than the sides and bottom |

Screw the first layer of the frame together, and put floor in
place |
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| Build a box that measures approximately 2" smaller than
the overall dimensions of your window. This allows a bit of
overhang on the front and sides.
To build the first layer of the box, pre-drill and screw
the sides to the front and back. Use the stronger, thicker
decking boards for the back to provide extra strength where
the window will be hinged. Then attach the front.
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Use a screw long enough to get a good grip on the end grain
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Mark the final flooring piece that will require cutting |

Install the piece in the bottom |
| Once the first layer of the box is screwed together, set the
bottom pieces in place. If there is a large gap in the floor,
lift the frame and slide a board in place under it. Then use
a pencil to trace a cut line to custom fit that last board.
Cut and slide the board back in place and attach all the floor
boards with screws through the sides. (Be sure to pre-drill
before driving in the screws.) |
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Install a vertical brace in the corner |

Attach the second level to the brace |
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| Attach the 1" x 2" corner braces to the
inside back of the frame using 1-1/4" screws. Then screw
the top board to the corner braces to complete the back. |
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Use a straight edge to scribe the cutoff angle |

Cut the side piece and install it with screws |
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| Make the angled sidepieces by holding a 24" fence board
on top of one of the existing sides. Use a straight edge to
draw the angle from the top back down to the level of the front.
Cut one angled board for each side. |
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Install a brace in the centre of each side for added support
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Completed box without window |

Detail of finished side |
| Attach the angled sides to the frame with screws through the
back and one more through the tip of the angled board. Add a
vertical brace in the center of the each side and secure it
in place with screws through both boards. |
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Remove the old hardware and flashing from the window |

Attach the hinges to the back of the frame |

Choose best side of window for hinging |

Pre-drill and screw the hinges and window together |
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| Remove old hardware from the window, then prime and paint
any exposed wood. Attach three hinges to the back of the frame,
then attach the window to the hinges leaving equal overhang
on both sides. |
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Make an arm (to hold the window open while working inside
the box). Drill one 1/4" hole through the three layers:
the side, the vertical support and the arm itself. Pass a carriage
bolt through the hole in the side, place a washer on the bolt
and then pass the bolt through the support arm. Add another
washer and finally a nut. Use thread adhesive to lock the nut
in place leaving the arm a bit loose so that it can move freely
and easily.
Voila - you now own a cold frame! |
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Lid propped open |
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| But here's the thing. Don't plant your tomato seeds too early
or they'll be ripe earlier than anyone else's and then they'll
be gone earlier than anyone else's and then next winter is going
to seem even longer. |
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Artisans'
work featured on this episode:
(click pics for Artist info and larger
images)
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